The main surfing dangers and the safety rules to avoid them

The main dangers in surfing are related to the surf equipment, your level of preparation and skills, and various natural and weather conditions.

Of course, you will not be able to influence the weather — but it’s important to take into account the direction and speed of the swell, the currents, the presence of wind, the nature of the bottom, and the like. It is also in your power to adequately assess your abilities and go out on the water only when you are confident in your powers.

Let’s take a closer look at the main dangers of surfing and at the same time formulate the rules of safe behavior on the water with a surfboard.

Rule 1. Don’t surf alone

This is maybe the first and the main rule for all water sports, not only surfing but also kitesurfing, windsurfing, kayaking, and others. Especially as a beginner, always have a buddy watching your back. If you are knocked unconscious or pulled under, it’s important to have someone who can help bring you to safety. In addition, sharks are more likely to attack individuals rather than groups of people.

One of the other biggest dangers facing surfers is other surfers. Popular surf spots get crowded, particularly when the surfing conditions are good. This puts you at risk of collisions, conflicts with other surfers, and painful run-ins with the fins of another surfer’s board. That’s why it’s so important to observe surf etiquette at all times.

Rule 2. Collect and always use a full set of surfing equipment

Whether you decided to surf sans rash guards or forgot to reapply sunscreen, chances are, you’ll come to regret those decisions, if not right away, then the next day. Do yourself a favor and always be prepared with the right equipment and gear any time you hit the water. A nasty sunburn or a painful rash is the fastest way to kill a post-surf high.

Rule 3. Know where to surf

You want to avoid areas heavily populated by rocks. Choose beach breaks (waves that break over a sandy bottom) rather than reef breaks (waves that break at coral reefs). A wipeout at the former is much more forgiving than wipeouts at the latter. You also want to avoid areas obstructed by above-ground objects, such as piers and pillars.

As a beginner, don’t surf anywhere where there isn’t a lifeguard. Lifeguards are vital resources should something bad happen while you’re out in the water. They’re also an invaluable source of advice about where it’s best to surf and what hazards you should avoid.

Among all of the above, always pay attention to the rip currents. Anyway, know how to get out of it. These strong and narrow currents also known as riptides will pull you directly away from the shore. To avoid getting caught in such a current, it’s better just not to ride on the spots where it is present. You can ask local surfers about it. Secondly, most surfers who get caught in riptides tend to panic and quickly swim against the current, leaving them exhausted and unable to stay afloat. But you have to do the opposite: paddle across the current or let it carry you further into the sea to go around it and calmly return to shore.

Rule 4. Learn to read surf forecast

The surf forecast is the same weather forecast as for any other sports or outdoor activity. What sets it apart from the snow forecast is, understandably, its own set of weather parameters. In the case of surfing, these are the three most important things to know and understand: swell, wind direction and wind gusts, and tides. In particular, tide changes are a good indicator of when you’ll be at the greatest risk of becoming tangled in a riptide. So knowing how to read surf forecasts is a must-do.

Rule 5. Pay attention to... everything on a surf spot

Always be aware of your surroundings, and check for flags and signs of different colors on a spot, indicating potential hazards. Usually, lifeguards place them on the beach in case they may occur to warn beachgoers. Remember also, that wave and weather conditions are constantly changing.

Anyway, always check yourself for potential safety hazards and protruding objects, poles, rocky spots, etc., before you paddle out, even if you have surfed at a location before.

Also, for anyone who has ever watched “Jaws”, the fear of sharks is a big one. That being said, shark attacks against surfers are relatively rare and fatal attacks even more. Shark attacks usually occur because the shark has mistaken the surfer for its natural prey. These attacks are typically “hit-and-run”, so even if you are attacked by a shark, there is a high probability that it will be afraid of you after the first attempt to get acquainted.

So take a few minutes to just get comfortable swimming in the water before grabbing your board. The more prepared you are, the safer and more enjoyable your experience will be.

Rule 6. Watch your head and your surf leash

The next most common safety risk is a blow to the head. It could be either from your surfboard when you wipe out or from hitting rocks or other protruding objects in the water. Being knocked unconscious puts you at risk of drowning.

Another common danger related to it is your surf leash becoming caught on underwater rocks or reefs, pulling you under, so watch it too.

Rule 7. Paddle, paddle, and paddle again, and practice the correct stance

Not paddling enough is another common mistake and potential danger for beginner surfers. In the beginning, many surfers want to stand up on the board as soon as they feel the wave begin to lift their board. In actuality, that initial “lift” is your cue to begin paddling fast and hard for a few seconds. Only once your surfboard begins to slide down the wave should you stand up.

A lot of beginners also place their feet incorrectly on the board when they stand up, flail their arms, lean too far back, or forget to bend their knees. Any of these mistakes will make you much more likely to wipeout. That’s why it’s important to practice the proper stance on dry land and take time to ask instructors or more experienced surfers for their feedback. Also a good idea? Practicing your pop-up on the beach, making sure you can effectively move from lying down on your board to standing upright in the correct stance.

Rule 8. Know your limits

It can never be said enough: be sure to choose the right wave. That means knowing your limits. If you constantly chase waves above your level, not only will you be frustrated, but you will put your safety at risk.

While you may feel the urge to compete with more experienced surfers, focus on your comfort level. Choose medium-sized, gentle waves rather than powerful, tall waves. Don’t ever be shy about talking to instructors or surf shop employees for advice on what the best waves are for your level.

Learn more about how to read the surf / swell forecast in a special Windy.app presentation with examples and tips from professional surfers with many years of experience of riding the biggest and best waves on the planet.

Text: Windy.app, Ivan Kuznetsov

Cover photo: Clickiopath / Unsplash